| FOLLOW THE WALK - Click Thumbnails or Text Links to see photos then back button to return to this page. |
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On a bright and sunny, cool and crisp April morning our walk began adjacent to the twelfth century church situated on the westerly fringe of the bay at Old Town, St. Mary’s. A glance through the granite pillared entrance revealed lichen clad headstones interspersed with wild primrose and daffodils, a tranquil setting for the final resting place of shipwrecked mariners and past generations of Scillonian families. Passing a set of old stone ‘horse mounting steps’ alongside the old churchyard wall the narrow path headed through a shady canopy of tall pittosporum bushes bearing small and fragrant scarlet flowers, the hedge providing shelter for an adjacent cultivated field of colourful narcissi in full bloom. Leaving the shelter of the hedges behind, we approached a small open area of pasture land with the fine leaved tufted grass noticibly springy under foot, a dilapidated, roofless old granite barn to the left the only evidence that remained where livestock once grazed. We walked around the imposing large granite outcrop known as Carn Leh from the foot of which could be seen Tolman Point to the left and the sweeping arc of Carn Leh Cove with the spectacular Peninnis Head dominating the background to the right. Passing a short stretch of narrow ground, the result of erosion by the severe gales experienced in October 2004, the pathway forked two ways as we followed the lower path leading around the perimeter of the headland. From hereon the terrain was fairly rugged with large weather worn granite boulders strewn either side of the heather covered ground. An Atlantic grey seal could be seen bobbing around in the waters below only to dive and eventually disappear without trace. Treading on steadily upwards we soon approached the most celebrated of the Peninnis rocks, the Pulpit. An impressive sight, the tabular, pointed granite slab rests, seemingly precariously on a smaller fulcrum of rock before jutting out towards the sea. Formed through constant erosion by wind and water along the horizontal fault lines in the rock, the flat slab proved a great viewing vantage point. A gentle incline followed with Peninnis Light, the only man-made intrusion in the vicinity partly hidden by a cluster of jagged, tooth-shaped granite boulders becoming more imposing as we moved on towards the heighest part of the headland. Maintained in immaculate condition by Trinity House, the light now has an automatic mechanism which a generation ago was switched on daily by an Island keeper. Out beyond the cliffs lay the rocky appendages of Carrickstarne and the little and big ‘Jolly Rocks’ and with brightening skies, the outline of the island of St. Agnes was clearly visible above a silver shimmering sea. Approaching the outer Peninnis head, we were in awe at the sheer size and scale of the steep-sided granite cliffs only put into perspective by a stationary figure below. Interestingly, even in this often hostile environment nature can throw up the occasional surprise with white Spring flowers found flourishing in protected pockets below the steep rocks. Leaving the headland behind, the distinctive ‘coconut’ scent of yellow gorse filled the air, the flowers providing a colourful foreground to the panoramic view of Hugh Town and Porthcressa beach in the distance. Passing over Inner head, the downhill route became increasingly rugged before an interesting cattle grid constructed of sizable oblong granite stone marked the beginning of a comparitively level area of ground contouring the fringes of Porthcressa Bay. The approach to St. Mary’s alotments marked the end of the walk, the neatly clipped hedges of the small plots providing protection for what has to be one of the most picturesque of settings in which to tend your own fruit and vegetables. |
